History from a Bicycle

When the 150-mile Great Allegheny Passage joined to the 184.5-mile C&O Canal Towpath in Cumberland, MD, it created a linear classroom for American history.

Connecting D.C. and Pittsburgh was George Washington's idea. He wanted to link the nation's capitol, beginning with the Potomac River in Georgetown, with the Forks of the Ohio.

Digging the canal began on July 4, 1828, the same day as ground was broken for the B&O Railroad. The canal would eventually reach Cumberland, leaving the railroad to finish the connection. Much of the GAP follows some of those lines since abandoned.

All of this makes for a gentle grade and pleasant riding. You pass through not only Revolutionary history (both the War for Independence and the Industrial) but Civil War, as well.

Further west, you even pedal through (not over) the hills where young Colonel Washington touched off the French & Indian War. This was wild country not so long ago, and what we like about it is, it's still not so tame.

And now you can sleep in the midst of history, too. Beginning last fall, the C&O Canal Trust made available for public occupancy three lock houses, once the abode of lock keepers and their families.

We did that over the week end. It exceeded expectations: pretty surroundings, clean and comfortable, heated, illuminated, beds but no linen (we used our sleeping bags on the beds), and a hot plate for cooking (though we cooked outside, taking advantage of an ample supply of dry firewood). Water came from a drinking fountain on an outside well, but on the C&O we always carry our own supply to drink.

A fourth lock house will soon be ready to rent. Amenities and rates vary from house to house, so check it out online. Ours was $85 a night. Google "Canal Quarters."

Our house (Lock House 49) is stocked with pictures and books on the canal and on those who lived here, and we read well into  the night. The fire died down and the stars revealed themselves. Owls serenaded us to sleep.

Come morning, we donned our rain gear and pedaled off, happy to have been the first overnight visitors to arrive by bike. We recommend it.

copyright 2010 J. O'Brien, all rights reserved